Batanes: Home of the Ivatans

Batanes is a chain of small islands in the northernmost point of the Philippines. Of these islands, only three are inhabited: Batan, Itbayat and Sabtang. These three (3) islands comprise six (6) municipalities collectively known as BISUMI: Basco (the capital), Itbayat, Sabtang, Uyugan, Mahatao and Ivana. Although described as having no real ports, the island chains of Batanes boast small beaches and coves which serve as anchorage for the locals’ small boats.

Inhabiting Batanes are the Ivatans, their name derived from the language they speak: Chirin nu Ibatan or simply Ivatan, an Austronesian language spoken exclusively in the Batanes Islands which is characterized by the dominant use of the letter “v”, as in valuga, vakul and vanuwa.

Where to go in Batanes

Tour destinations in Batanes are subdivided into four (4) clusters:

• North Batan Island (Basco)
  • Mt. Carmel Chapel
  • Radar Tukon
  • Idjang Viewpoint
  • Fundacion Pacita
  • Japanese Tunnel
  • Valugan Boulder Beach
  • Vayang Rolling Hills
  • Basco Lighthouse in Naidi Hills
  • Sto. Domingo Church
• South Batan Island (Mahatao, Ivana and Uyugan)
  • Chawa Viewdeck
  • Mahatao Pier
  • San Jose Borromeo Church
  • Diura (Fishing Village)
  • Fountain of Youth
  • Racuh a Payaman (Marlboro Country)
  • Imnajbu Point
  • Old Naval Base
  • Alapad Rock
  • Song Song Ruins
  • San Jose de Ivana Church
  • Honesty Coffee Shop
  • Famous House of Dakay
• Sabtang Island
  • San Vicenter Ferer Church
  • Savidug Village and Savidug Idjang Rock Fortress
  • Sabtang Vernacular Houses
  • Sabtang Lighthouse
  • Limestone production
  • Chamantad-Tinyan Viewpoint
  • Chavayan Village
  • Nakabuang (Morong) Beach and Ahao Arch
  • Vuhus Island
• Itbayat Island
  • Chinapoliran Port
  • Sta. Maria Immaculada (Itbayat) Church
  • Lake Kavaywan
  • Mt. Karoboban Viewpoint
  • Torongan Hills and Cave
  • Paganaman Port and Lagoon
  • Rapang Cliffs and Stone Bell
  • Kaxobcan Beach
  • Mt. Riposed
  • Nahili Votox Burial Site
  • Komayasakas Cave and Water Source
  • Manoyok Sinkhole
  • Sarokan, Pevangan and Do’tboran Caves
  • Agosan Rocks
  • Port Mauyen
  • Island hopping (when weather permits):
    • Siayan
    • Dinem
    • Ditarem
    • Yami (Mavolis)

Watch bulls fight

The Kissing Rocks of Chavayan Village in Sabtang Island is relatively unknown to many. This imposing rock formation is a sight to behold. The wooden contraption in the foreground is used to tow fishing boats to shore.

Chavayan Village, Sabtang, Batanes

Managed by the Sabtang Parish, this mini cafe and shop is the town’s version of Ivana’s Honesty Cafe.

This ubiquitous road sign is spread across Batanes’ National Highway system, a reminder to motorists to not forget to honk when navigating the meandering roads of Batanes. What makes this sign unique is that, as related by a local resident, the sign user “UR” for YOUR, years before text-speak reached the region.

A miniature of the Mahatao Church.

Located at the heart of Basco, fronting the Casa Real, this sign marks the spot where all distances in the whole Batanes Isles is measured from.

The Racuh a Payaman, popularly known among visitors as Marlboro Hills, is one of many communal pasturelands in Batanes.

In Sabtang, this tricycle is King!

Dive Batanes

Optional activities

Mt. Iraya Hike (North Batan)
Duration: 3hrs to 4 hrs
Highlights: At 1,900ft ASL, Mt Iraya offers a stunning view of Basco and a wide array of endemic flora and fauna.

Mt. Matarem Hike (South Batan)
Duration: 1.5hrs to 2hrs
Highlights: An extinct volcano, Mt. Matarem spans the municipalities of Mahatao, Uyugan and Ivana. At the summit, you’ll have a commanding view of Sabtang.

Hiking/Walking Tour
Duration: 4hrs to 6hrs
Highlights: Hike along the Basco-Mahatao Trail, stopping by Racuh-a-idi Spring of Youth in Diura Fishing Village for a cold, refreshing dip. Then continue on to the radar station, Fundacion Pacita and the wind turbines.

SCUBA Diving
Duration: 2hrs to 3hrs, depending on the dive location and number of dives.
Highlights: Explore the rich marine life of Sabtang: Pavona coral fields, Trevallies Lair, Canyons, etc.

Fishing/Boating
Duration: Minimum of 1hr
Highlights: Experience “mataw” fishing with local anglers using nylon line and hook.

ATV Touring
Duration: up to whole day
Highlights: Explore Batan at your own pace.

Bicycle (Motorbike) Touring
Duration: up to whole day
Highlights: A visit to Batanes is not complete without trying out one of its iconic symbols, the bicycle. Tour Batan Island on two wheels, either self-powered or motorized. Travel from the heart of Basco to the southernmost parts of Batan.

Contacts:

BISUMI Tours and Services
Ryan Lara Cardona <+63915.803.4582>
bisumitours@gmail.com

MarFel Lodge
<+63908.893.1475>
<+63920.976.4966>
<+63917.857.4493>
<+63917.883.3249>
marfellodge@gmail.com
http://marfellodgebatanes.com

Dive Batanes
Chico Domingo <+63939.935.1950>

Ivatan ATV Rentals
<+63998.551.9656>

Basco TODA
<+63929.703.8404>

Casa Napoli Pizza
<+63999.990.7553>

Rapang (Itbayat) Guide
Jose Valiente <+63949.620.0184>

Romblon: A beachgoer’s Paradise

Sharing its name with the province, the town of Romblon is a picturesque settlement that gained prominence during Spanish colonial times as a trading post. The island municipality is blessed with natural playgrounds such as beaches, rivers, natural pools and diverse marine ecosystems that offer visitors several opportunities for adventures.

Agpanabat Marine Sanctuary

Romblon has 17 marine sanctuaries, the most popular being Agpanabat Marine Sanctuary and Turtle Rescue Center, just below Apunan Lighthouse.

Various species of corals and anemones cover the seabed and serve as home to colorful schools of fish.

Bonbon Beach and Sandbar

Perhaps the most popular beach destination in Romblon is Bonbon Beach. Just 15 minutes away from the town proper, this marble-white beach is Romblon’s top tourist drawer.

Bonbon Beach seen with Bang-og Islet.

It’s a unique formation with two long white-sand beaches… converging at a corner to form a sandbar…

It’s a unique formation with two long white-sand beaches converging at a corner to form a sandbar…

… and land bridge connecting Bang-og Islet to the main beach.

Bonbon sandbar beginning to fill with sunset watchers.

What a view to end the day, huh.

Tiamban Beach

Tiamban Beach is bounded by Nonok Beach and Bonbon Beach on either side, and is a good alternative when the two becomes overly crowded. The idyllic coastline of Tiamban Beach makes for a leisurely getaway.

Bang-og Islet can be seen here.

Nonok Beach

Nonok Beach is a favorite events place among locals. Its main attraction are its various underwater sculptures. You can rent a kayak and paddle your way around Nonok Beach’s mini mangrove forest.

Talipasak Beach

Thirty minutes from Romblon town proper in Talipasak Beach is San Pedro Beach Resort. This privately owned resort is a welcome change from the usually crowded Nonok, Tiamban and Bonbon beaches. One can just sit back and enjoy the view or take a dive and marvel at the diverse marine life.

Libtong Falls and Natural Pool

Off the beaten track, Libtong Falls features a natural pool walled in by bedrocks, best for a refreshing dip. While the falls is not that spectacular, Libtong is a popular destination for thrill seekers wanting to hone their cliff jumping stunts… or, as in our case, just chillaxing and cooling off after a 15-minute trek.

Quipot (or Kipot) River

Twenty minutes downhill from the main highway is Quipot (or Kipot) River. Kipot falls is also a favorite among those who subscribe to the thrills of cliff jumping.

Reminds me so much of Walang-Langit Falls in Gloria, Oriental Mindoro.

 

 

A white beach on a green island

Mahabang Buhangin in Brgy San Agustin Kanluran is a mile-long stretch of sandy beach interspersed with coves and rock formations.

Verde Island, particularly Brgy. San Antonio and Brgy. San Agapito, is more popular as a diving destination among local and foreign SCUBA divers. However, with more and more photos of its hidden gems, notably the mile-long Mahabang Buhangin in San Agustin Kanluran (West) appearing in social media sites, beachcombers and island campers began flocking anew to Isla Verde.

How to get there:

1. Take a Batangas City Grand Terminal-bound bus, either from Cubao or Buendia [Fare: PHP157 to PHP165 per pax], then ride a jeep to Tabangao Aplaya [Fare: PHP40 to PHP50 per pax].
2. Board a commuter banca plying the Tabangao-Isla Verde route [Fare: PHP90 to PHP120 per pax]. The boat leaves at around 9AM to 10AM, but it’s better to be at the wharf as early as 8AM to get better seats. Be sure to inform the purser/crew where you will be staying. The boat stops at San Agustin Kanluran, San Agapito and San Antonio.  The return trip is a lot trickier, as the Isla Verde-Tabangao trip leaves as early as 3AM. There is ONLY ONE trip leaving Tabangao, as well as ONLY ONE trip leaving Isla Verde daily.

 

Kalanggaman Island: A Secret No More

Welcome to Kalanggaman Island!

Surrounded by strong currents and rip tides, no wonder this unspoiled island has remained hidden for a long time, until now.

Yes. We ventured the long road to paradise.

From the rough and very rough roads of Camarines Norte and Sur, to the paved stretch of concrete and asphalt highway in the hinterlands of Albay, Sorsogon and Samar, we endured the 20-hour roadtrip to Tacloban City in Leyte — our final takeoff point to Kalanggaman Island, the most talked-about, Instagrammed and Twitted piece of pristine, unadulterated real estate in Palompon, Southern Leyte.

The trip may have been bum-busting and looooooooong, but the views and sceneries were majestic!

An imperfect paradise

Gaining popularity only in 2013, when M/V Europa Cruise Line – with almost 400 passengers – did a pit stop on the island for a couple of hours. Photos of its powdery white sand beach and its sparkling blue waters, accented by a crescent sandbar, posted on various social media sites sparked a frenzy among beach lovers and adventurers.

I must admit, Kalanggaman Island is not without flaws. For one, the treacherous currents surrounding the famed sandbar prohibited the swimmer in me to enjoy its teal blue waters. Moreover, the local tourism office in-charge of the island’s upkeep was not entirely prepared for the sudden influx of sunworshippers and selfie fanatics crowding the beach, especially during weekends. I actually fear that one day soon some parts of Kalanggaman Island will succumb to trash. Let’s not let that happen. Please.

When in Kalanggaman

The now famous sandbar.

There are no privately owned resorts in Kalanggaman, but overnight camping is allowed. Don’t worry if you don’t own a tent; the Eco-Tourism Office in Palompon rents them out.

Aside from baking under the sun and snorkeling, there are a few other activities one can actually enjoy on the island. You may want to try your hands at kayaking (PHP150/hr) and stand-up paddling (PHP200/hr); just approach any of the “Island Relations Officers” roaming the island. They’d be easy to spot, ‘coz they’re usually dressed in colorful island-inspired polo shirts: Yeah. Channeling their inner Lito Atienza. Harharhar!

And, for a complete Kalanggaman Island experience, go SCUBA diving! There are no dive shops on the island, so you may have to bring your own or rent it from the Palompon Eco-Tourism Office.

To Get There

As earlier mentioned, we chose to go the long way to Kalanggaman, braving the 20-hour roadtrip; albeit, there are a lot more options to choose from. Here are a few that may fit your traveling style… and budget.

From Manila

Take the 2GO Ferry to Cebu. From Cebu, you can travel to Palompon, Leyte either by bus or RORO boats.

Ceres Liner buses bound for Manila via Maharlika Highway leaves Cebu North Bus Terminal every 8AM and arrives at Pulangbato Port in Bogo City, Cebu at around 12NN. From there, you can catch a RORO boat bound for Palompon.

Of course, you can always opt to travel by air to Tacloban City. From there, you can get on a GT van to Palompon or, if you’re in a hurry, just hire a van.

Once in the town of Palompon, take a pedicab (locally called “potpot”) to the Eco-Tourism Office – the yellow building within the municipal office complex.

A trip to Kalanggaman Island requires prior “booking” with the local tourism office, as the local government limits the number of tourists per day to preserve the beauty of the place. Make sure you made a reservation before going.

Travel time from Palompon to Kalanggaman Island is about an hour.

Upon reaching the island, you’re free to find your own sweet spot to pitch your tent for the day – sit back, relax and chew in the scenery.

SCHEDULE OF FEES

Overnight Rate

• International tourists               PHP750
• Non-Palompon tourists                   225
• Palompon tourists                             75
• Students and senior citizens enjoy a much lower entrance fee.

Outrigger bancas range from PHP3,000 to 4,000, depending on the number of passengers.

Biri Rocks!

Biri Rock Formation is a collective term given to seven limestone islets, which from afar, resemble a sturdy wall protecting the island municipality of Biri from the churning waves generated by the clashing waters where the San Bernardino Strait meets the ferocious Pacific Ocean. Twenty-three million years of wind and waves, and the constant shifting of tectonic plates down below, shaped these magnificent natural formations, each with their own unique characteristics and distinct shape. From the twin rocks of Bel-at with nearby Puhunan and the most-photographed Macadlaw to the adjacent islets of Magasang and Magsapad, these giant monuments have stood the ravages of time.

The “Wave” serves as a mini centerpiece to the Bel-at Rock Formation.

From atop one of the twin “towers” of Bel-at, the clear-blue waters down below beckon.

Dubbed the smallest of the seven rock formations in Biri, Puhunan as viewed from one of the towers of Bel-at.

Complementing the natural attraction of the “magnificent seven” are the surrounding white-sand beach, a lush mangrove forest with dwarf mangroves, and crystal-clear tidal pools through which one can take a dip to cool oneself.

The bridge to Magasang

During high tides, this body of water separating Magasang and Magsapad is a heaven for snorkellers.

Magasang is punctuated by these “lava bubbles” shaped like stairs that lead directly to its “summit”.

Magsapad Rock viewed atop Magasang.

 

 

Ciao 2015! It has been a wonderful ride.

When asked, most people would say that the principal value of traveling is that it breaks the monotony of life and work.

Y’see, life, for many of us, is a mad rush. A dash from home to the office–from one place to the next. A sprint from one client meeting to a waiting company presentation–from one money-making deal to the next career-breaking move. Day-in, day-out we try to accomplish as many stuff as possible. Thus, traveling becomes a form of escape for the likes of us–a time to relax, reflect and ponder. Traveling gives us the opportunity to disconnect from our regular life and, for a fleeting moment, not think of any problems or issues for a few days (or weeks). Being away on a weekend can also afford us the much-needed time to help us figure things out that we would not have understood without the distance traveling can give. We all have crazy schedules, work, and a family to take care of and going away alone or with some friends gives us that break we rightfully deserve.

Very few find a great deal of informative value in traveling. More often than not, our focus centers on the promise of a fun-filled R&R, of selfies and jump shots. This is where I realized that a lot of people don’t seem to share some of my views about traveling. For me, it is very important to see and experience the places I visit from a local resident’s perspective. Traveling is an avenue for me to open my heart and mind to new things and explore different cultures and traditions; thus, experiencing life in new and exciting ways–widening my perspective about life, especially the life I have in relation to how other people live. If viewed with an open mind, it can help us change some of our habits or even create new ones…

Before I totally bid adieu to 2015, indulge me as I look back at the highlights of my adventures and travels:

Got on a road trip from Iloilo City to Cebu City, passing through Bacolod City, Sipalay, Dumaguete City and Badian.

“Traversed” North and South Mindanao, bringing me to Aliwagwag Falls in Cateel, Davao Oriental, Lake Sebu’s Seven Falls in South Cotabato, Asik-asik Falls in North Cotabato; as well as allowed me to revisit the majestic cascades of Maria Cristina, Mimbalot and Tinago in Iligan, and Tinuy-an in Bislig.

Iloilo to Cebu

Zamboanga to Butuan

Cotabato City to Davao City

Scratched off a few more things from my To-Do list

Enjoy the waters of Asik-asik Falls

Watch bulls fight

Dive Batanes

Swim with sharks…

… and whalesharks!

Feed hungry fishes

Fly in an ultralight plane

Waddle in the powdery soft sands of Balabac in Palawan

Fast-rope down a 90-foot cliff

Photograph some beauty queens…

… while ham it up with some.

Survive the wild

Brought home these wonderful ‘loot’

 

A kudong (salakot) worn by a street performer during the Talakudong Festival in Sultan Kudarat.

My ‘loot’ from the National Museum in Quezon: Tagbanua and Paraw-an items – Manunggol jars and blowguns… Thanks Larry Pronto of the Quezon National Museum for the souvenirs.

An embellished mask from one of the participants of the Masskara Stree Dance Competition.

Had some of my travelogues published

The year 2015 has indeed been one helluva ride!

Hmmmm…. now, where am I in the Lakbayan map:

My Lakbayan grade is A+!

Nemo… me impune lacessit

This clown fish seems to warn me not to get too close to his anemone.
Photo taken in Mansud Wall, Samal Island

The ABC of Summer 2015

After weekend-upon-weekend of hopping from one island to the next, discovering heavens on earth and overdosing on #VitaminSea — satiating the #AQUAholic in me — I finally have a weekend off!

As #Summer2015 begins to wind down, I sit back and take a moment to relive the fun and adventure that I embarked on — each journey made with different groups of people, most of them became dear friends.

I know, I know… we have yet a week to go before #Summer2015 officially ends. Hmmmm…. Do I hear an #endlesssummer cheer from out there? Well, might as well be, as we have 7,107 reasons to want an all-year-round summer extravaganza!

My #Summer2015 was spent exploring, discovering, and revisiting destinations that you seldom hear about… as well as, going back to the basics of travelling and adventurism, where hotel reservations are shunned. Have backpack? Will travel.

Doing so, I uncovered the wonders of ABC: Alibijaban, Balabac and Burias, and Culebra.

Paradise, Lost?
Alibijaban Island, San Andres, Quezon

Playground of the #AQUAholics

The clear waters surrounding the mangrove forest is surreal

I can just sit here and watch the day go by

Well, this looks like a nice spot too.

One of many white-sand beaches dotting the coastline of Alibijaban Island

Our humble abode by the ocean

Paradise, Found.
Balabac, Palawan

Never have I seen white sand as soft and as fine as these

More that 10km-long sandbar

I yet unnamed sandbar off Candaraman Island which I christened “Starfish Alley”… for obvious reasons

Pink sand. Blue waters. What more can you ask for

Great snorkeling site

Did I mention crystal clear waters?

Constructed in 1892 by the Spaniards, the Faro de Primer Orden de Cabo Melville soars about 90 feet above sea level and illuminates Balabac Strait up to almost 300 feet. The tower still retains its original clockwork but it is inoperative.

We owe much of Onuk’s “discovery” to famed photographer George Tapan, who captured the essence of this island paradise, earning him the 2011 National Geographic Photo Contest (Category: Places) plume.

Paradise, Regained.
Burias, Masbate

Maldives… not! The white sands and pristine blue waters of Sombrero Island

Sombrero Island: The centerpiece of Burias tourism

No, your eyes aren’t playing tricks on you. That’s not Kapurpurawan Rock in Ilocos. That’s one of many eye-popping formations in Animasola Island

Animasola Island is being developed by the LGU of San Pascual, Masbate as an adventure zone, complete with rappelling and rock climbing

Get a dose of adrenaline-pumping excitement from jumping off this 20-foot (thereabouts) cliff of Iniwaran Island

Cap off your day in Burias with this magnificent view of the sunset from Tinalisayan sandbar

Beach camping at its best in Tinalisayan Maliit Island

Paradise, Revisited
Culebra Island, Dasol, Pangasinan

The ever changing landscape of Culebra Island assures you that surprises will never run out

Where there used to be a tidal pool in June 2014…

… was all sand when we returned #Summer2015

… but the white (or was it pinkish) sands remain.

Rombo Balabac: Onok and Comiaran Islands

Onok Island

Managed by Balabac Mayor Shuaib Astami and family, Onok Island is an epitome of bliss… and perhaps the more popular destination in the Balabac group of islands — well, apart from Punta Sibaring. We owe much of Onok’s “discovery” to famed photographer George Tapan, who captured the essence of this island paradise, earning him the 2011 National Geographic Photo Contest (Category: Places) plume.

Fronting the main beach of Onok island is a massive reef, rife with a variety of soft and colorful corals that extend towards a sheer drop of about 80 feet, where large pelagic fish swim about — on occasion, you’ll be lucky to encounter a school of yellow fins! The surroundings of this small island is also home to “taklobos” or giant sea clams, and of course, sea turtles! Never have I seen sea turtles — oblivious to our presence — in such quantity! Although a family-owned property, no fees are collected when you visit Onok. If I were to go back to Balabac, this is where I would camp.

Comiaran Island

On our way to Cape Melville, the designated campsite for the fourth leg of our Rombo Balabac Island Safari, we made a quick stop in Comiaran Island. The lush vegetation on the island was no match to the scorching heat of the April sun, giving us the impression that we were on a desert island! Well, no sun nor heat could stop us from exploring though, as the pinkish sands of Comiaran was so inviting.

 Next: Cape Melville and Lighthouse >>>

Rombo Balabac: Candaraman Island via Mansalangan Sandbar and Patawan Islet

It was a loooong four-and-a-half hour — but fortunately, very scenic — trip from Puerto Prinsesa City (PPC) to the sleepy mining town of Rio Tuba, the jumpoff point to our Balabac exploration.

The port in Rio Tuba is like a scene in Bongao, Tawi-tawi.

Rio Tuba is not what I expected: boisterous, busy, urbanized — an expectation bolstered by the thought that since it is a mining town, commerce must’ve been teeming. On the contrary, I found a quiet, slow-paced, rustic village very similar to the other towns I have visited outside PPC, like Narra, Quezon and San Vicente, with one very noticeable exception: wide, dusty roads — to accommodate huge mining trucks, perhaps.

From the port of Rio Tuba, it was another three-or-so hours of sea travel just to reach Punta Sibaring, our campsite for Day One.

Little house on the pra–, er, on the beach.
— Photo by: Nelo Manzo

Needless to say, we were so beat from the arduous voyage the day before that many of us were contemplating on just staying at the magnificent Punta Sibaring. Now that I think about it, it isn’t a bad idea if we opted to stay another day there. Oh well…. hindsight, they say, is 20/20.

By dawn’s early light of Day Two, I can already smell the inviting aroma of dried flying fish frying in Kap Andong’s pan. Handing me a cup of 3-in-1 coffee (spiked with my favorite poison… Sssshhhhh!) — I would’ve opted for freshly brewed Buscalan coffee if I had it my way — our Captain, dear Captain gave me a rundown of the other islands we NEEDed to explore — again, NEEDed.  Kap Andong’s enthusiasm was indeed contagious!

So, after breakfast…. off we went.

Mansalangan Sandbar

Mansalangan sandbar is part of a 12km or so stretch of beautiful land mass that glimmers from a distance.

The tide was still high when we got there, so much of the sandbar was still underwater; but, this didn’t stop us from having the time of our life!

Photo by: Nelo Manzo

Sun-kissed and drenched, we boarded our boat to our next stop…

Patawan Island

Our next stop on our way to Day Two campsite is Patawan Island… more like an islet. What is unique about this piece of real estate is that from afar, it looks cottony white; but up close, the sand was pink-ish, very similar to what you’ll find in Tikling Island off the coast of Matnog, Sorsogon.

… and the water’s crystal clear!

From afar, it looks white as cotton.

Up close, the sand was pink-ish!

As below, so it was from above.

Lunch is served!

Uhm… we ate too. — Photo by: Williard Tejares

After a quick lunch and some snorkeling, we  were on our way to the next pit stop…

Candaraman Island

Candaraman is a privately owned island and has its own airstrip. We were told that someday soon, small planes will again be taking off and landing from here.

Candaraman Island Sandbar (Starfish Alley)

The island comprising Balabac is full of sandbars. Here, just off the main island of Candaraman, we were fortunate to share the waters with a couple of marine turtles!

Most of the sandbars in Balabac are yet to be named, so I volunteered to christen this mesmerizing seascape: Starfish Alley… for a very obvious reason: the seabed is littered with starfish in all sizes and colors! I hope Kap Andong catches on to the name….

Next: Onok and Comiaran Islands >>>