Rolling in the Deep: A Samar Caving Adventure

Gateway to discovery.

“Next!”, said the invisible voice from the dark hole in front of me. Never has such a single word sent a chill so cold down my spine as that word. My heart started pounding. I never expected the entrance to be this…. SMALL!!!.

As I angled myself to fit in the 3-meter (?) long “diamond tunnel” — aptly named because of its diamond-shaped “mouth”, the words of John E. Gillett, a British caver and author of the book Of Caves and Caving: A Way and a Life, reverberated in my head:

“What is caving? Caving is fun. Caving is in the darkness. Caving is illuminating. Caving is dangerous. Caving is a minority sport for idiots. Caving is a muddy pastime. Caving warms you up. Caving gives you hypothermia. Caving is a sport for the individual. Caving is for everyone. Caving is exploration. Caving refreshes the soul. Caving is a way of life.”

Snapping out of my reverie, I silently slithered my way, “reverse crawling” into the pitch-black void of the unknown. Although more difficult, I opted to enter this claustrophobic hole feet first because the coward in me couldn’t bear the thought of possibly making eye-to-eye contact with one of Lower Langun’s residents, which moments ago we saw a couple lounging about in one of the cave’s mini chambers.

Once through the hole and on level ground, I shone my headlamp around the cave, suddenly dwarfed by its vastness, oblivious of the voice instructing me where to step on to avoid the slippery rocks. I waddled awkwardly until I got to a safe corner where I could pause and catch my breath. Now, it’s my turn to say “Next!”.

Langun-Gobingob Cave, Calbiga, Samar

The Langun-Gobingob Cave in Calbiga, Samar is a magnificent natural wonder that captivates adventurers and spelunkers from around the world. As the largest cave system in the Philippines and one of the largest in Southeast Asia, Langun-Gobingob Cave boasts impressive dimensions and features that inspire awe and wonder. This subterranean marvel spans an expansive area of 2,968 hectares, encompassing a labyrinthine network of chambers, passageways, and underground rivers. The cave’s immense size and intricate formations, including stalactites, stalagmites, and flowstones, create a surreal landscape that transports visitors to another world.

“What is caving? Caving is fun. Caving is in the darkness. Caving is illuminating. Caving is dangerous. Caving is a minority sport for idiots. Caving is a muddy pastime. Caving warms you up. Caving gives you hypothermia. Caving is a sport for the individual. Caving is for everyone. Caving is exploration. Caving refreshes the soul. Caving is a way of life.”

John E. Gillett, in Of Caves and Caving: A Way and a Life

The journey into Langun-Gobingob Cave is a thrilling adventure filled with challenges and discoveries. Equipped with helmets, headlamps, and a sense of adventure, we embarked on an exploration of the cave’s hidden depths, guided by experienced cave guides from Trexplore Adventures who helped us navigate the labyrinthine passages with skill and expertise. Inside the cave, one can only wonder at the diverse array of geological phenomena, from towering rock formations to shimmering underground rivers. The Cathedral Room, a massive chamber adorned with intricate formations that resemble the vaulted ceilings of a grand cathedral, is a highlight of the cave exploration — and our “campsite” for our first night inside.

Deeper into the cave, we encountered narrow passageways, a mini lake, and hidden waterfalls, each revealing new wonders and challenges to overcome. The Gobingob Chamber, a vast expanse of darkness that stretches as far as the eye can see, represents the culmination of the cave exploration, offering a glimpse into the true magnitude of Langun-Gobingob Cave.

Emerging from the depths of the cave, adventurers are filled with a sense of awe and wonder at the beauty and majesty of the natural world. Langun-Gobingob Cave is not just a cave; it is a testament to the power of nature and the enduring spirit of exploration that drives us to seek out the wonders of the world around us.

Mount Cagua: A power waiting to be unleashed?

Mount Cagua (pronounced as Ka-wah, according to our guides), located in the quiet town of Gonzaga, is the only active stratovolcano in the province of Cagayan, and is known also for its stunning landscapes and rich biodiversity. Rising to an elevation of approximately 1,158 meters above sea level (MASL), it offers breathtaking views of the main caldera, a partial view of the twin sulfur vents or fumaroles, and parts of the northern coast of Cagayan.

The volcano is part of the Babuyan or Cagayan Volcanic Arc and is characterized by two prominent “craters” with several sulfuric fumaroles. The main caldera is 1.5 kilometers in diameter, with walls reaching as high as 60 meters.

NOTE 1: The locals here mistakenly call the main caldera as “Crater 1” and the twin sulfur vents as “Crater 2”.

NOTE 2: Fumaroles are openings in the earth’s surface that emit steam and volcanic gases, such as sulfur dioxide and carbon dioxide. They can occur as holes, cracks, or fissures near active volcanoes or in areas where magma has risen into the earth’s crust without erupting.

While hiking Mount Cagua, adventurers can marvel at its diverse flora and fauna, including endemic trees (“tibbug”) and bird (“bil-billit”) species. The hike to Mount Cagua consists five legs, each commencing at designated pit stops or stations.

Station 1: Sulyap sa Cagua. The station name literally means a peek at Cagua, where you can already see the steam trails from the two prominent craters. This is the jump-off point and is a short leg of about 20- to 30-minute walk. The trail begins gently enough, winding its way through corn fields and culminates in the shade of a “tibbug” tree.

Station 2: “Tibbug” Woods. “Tibbug” is an Ilocano term for what the Tagalogs call “tibig” or sacking tree, a type of flowering plant of the Moraceae family, which can grow up to nine meters high. From here, it’s about an hour-and-a-half trek on a slightly ascending trail through tall trees and occasional rocky terrain. You’ll know when you are almost at the end of the trail when you encounter a steady incline of rugged slopes. The 15-minute mini ascent left me winded!

Making a quick stop to listen to the sound of birds.

Station 3: “Bil-billit” Sanctuary. Here, you’ll be greeted by a cacophony of bird calls! The “noise” is just enchanting! This area of the mountain is a sanctuary to 121 species of indigenous birds, which includes more than 16 endangered species of the Philippine hawk eagle owl (Bubo Philippinensis), furtive flycatcher (Fliceduladisposita), and Rafus hornbill or “kalaw” (Buceroshydrocorax). According to our guides, you can hear the “kalaw” cawing as if doing a time-check every 10am or 11am. By the way, “Bil-billit” in Ilocano means birds.

From Station 3, the trek becomes a little more strenuous, with the terrain becoming more rugged and steep. Ours was made more laborious by the early morning drizzle, which made the trail slippery.

Station 4: “Alimanawan” Red Zone. This section of the trail is characterized by thick under brushes and extremely rugged terrain. But more than the trail, the hour-long steady uphill climb, and the thinning air, this part of the trek is made doubly taxing by, one word: “Limatik”, hence the “Red Zone” in the station name. The nagging fear of encountering these bloodsuckers will keep you on your toes. With each step, you will feel the air grow thinner and start to breathe in the unmistakable scent of sulfur permeating the air (if you have any pulmonary issues, it is best to wear a mask).

The Red Zone finishes in a grassy flatland where you can finally see the summit and the main caldera. The trek to the summit is more relaxed from here, navigated through a narrow and winding footpath. Finally seeing the steam vents reinforced in me a sense of curiosity and wonder… and a tiny bit of fear: “What if Mount Cagua decides to wake up right there and then?”, which I just brushed off, the elation of summitting this mountain eclipsed the fear.

Mount Cagua Summit. At 1,158 MASL, Mount Cagua summit offers a bird’s eye view of Cagayan’s northern coast, with glimpses of Santa Teresita’s long stretch of coastline and the Babuyan Channel.

Descending from the summit to the main caldera can be very tough for an inexperienced trekker. The terrain is almost vertical that you have to rely on ropes to safely go down. At times, climbers may need to use both hands and feet to navigate the descent due to the very rugged nature of the terrain. Please proceed with extreme caution and be mindful of the trail conditions during the descent from the summit to the main crater.

With cautious steps, we descended into the main caldera, the heat of the steam radiating against my skin and the pungent smell of sulfur soaking my lungs. The ground beneath me felt alive, vibrating with the energy of the volcano’s restless heart. It was a humbling experience, a reminder of the immense power that lay dormant beneath the earth’s surface. The caldera was a sight unlike anything I had ever seen, simultaneously beautiful and terrifying in its intensity.

Sulfur crystals or deposits found around the crater.

Main Caldera. Several vents and fumaroles that emit steam and gases dot the entirety of the caldera of Mount Cagua, indicating volcanic activity. A prominent “mud pot” where one can see actual mud boiling is one of the highlights of the caldera. Boiling mud is a mixture of water, gases, and volcanic ash or other sediments that boils at the surface due to the intense heat from underground volcanic activity. This mixture often forms in areas where water interacts with hot rocks or magma beneath the earth’s surface. This boiling action has created mud pools, bubbling mud pots, or small mud vents in the caldera. While most of the larger “mud pots” are marked and/or sealed off, there are still several vents that remain hidden so walking around the area should be limited to marked footpaths only to avoid any untoward incidents.

It’s important to note that due to the volcano’s active status, the conditions around the caldera can change over time, influenced by various volcanic processes such as eruptions, gas emissions, and volcanic tremors.

Twin Sulfur Fumaroles. An 800-meter trek from the caldera through dense vegetation leads to the twin sulfur vents or fumaroles. Here, the ground vibration is more pronounced and the hissing sound of the vented steam much louder. A sulfuric river (although dried up when we visited) runs along the trail leading to the caldera.

While this is the best spot to take those “dramatic” shots, extra care should always be exercised, as loose rocks abound.

Mount Cagua Waterfalls or Bagsang (or Sangbay) Falls. From the secondary crater, the waterfalls is a good ten- to fifteen-minute walk and is considered as the tallest waterfalls discovered in Gonzaga. The short trek to the falls is highlighted by moss-covered rocks, fallen trees, and various plant species, and culminates in a challenging rappel down a cliff to reach the base.

The trip to Bagsang Falls proves to be a refreshing detour at this juncture of the hike. Trekkers can take advantage of the cool waters to soothe tired muscles.

Station 5: Bunkhouse. The final station of the half-day trek through Mount Cagua is the Bagsang base camp or bunkhouse. It’s just a 30-minute trek from the waterfalls.

From the bunkhouse, the return trek is a much shorter hike as it skips the entire “Red Zone”; a mere 10-minute walk will already take you to the the trail head of Station 4, and from there, you can just follow the same path you’ve initially taken until you reach the jump-off station.

This adventure was made possible by Napapagna under Eldridge Bandas.

Take Away: A Journey into the Heart of Mount Cagua

Mount Cagua is a “friendly volcano” to the locals, having erupted only twice in recorded history. Although still considered an active volcano, it has been dormant since its last eruption in 1907.

Trekking through the rugged terrain of Mount Cagua was not just a physical journey; it was a transformative experience that would leave an indelible mark on one’s soul.

As I reflect on the adventure, I am reminded of the awe-inspiring beauty of nature and the profound connection it fosters between the human spirit and the natural world. Each leg of the trek unfolded like a chapter in a story, revealing new wonders and challenges along the way. From the gentle ascent through corn fields at Sulyap sa Cagua to the enchanting cacophony of bird calls at the “Bil-billit” Sanctuary, every step brought us closer to the heart of the mountain and deeper into its embrace.

Deeper into the mountain, the terrain became more rugged and steep, the air grew thinner, and the scent of sulfur permeated the atmosphere, testing our endurance. The descent from the summit to the main caldera demanded courage and caution as we navigated the treacherous terrain with ropes as our lifeline. But amidst the physical challenges and moments of uncertainty, there was a profound sense of wonder and awe that pervaded the journey. Standing at the summit, gazing out at the panoramic vista of Cagayan’s northern coast, I felt a profound connection to the earth and a deep appreciation for the beauty that surrounded me.

Descending into the main caldera, I was humbled by the raw power and beauty of nature, as steam vents and fumaroles dotted the landscape, reminding me of the volcano’s restless heart. The sight of boiling mud and sulfur deposits served as a potent reminder of the dynamic forces at play beneath the earth’s surface, a reminder of the delicate balance between creation and destruction. As we made our way to the twin sulfur vents and Mount Cagua Waterfalls, I was struck by the resilience of life that thrived in the midst of adversity. Moss-covered rocks, fallen trees, and vibrant plant species adorned the landscape, a testament to nature’s ability to adapt and flourish in even the harshest of environments.

On our way back to civilization, I felt a sense of gratitude for the opportunity to witness the beauty of Mount Cagua and to experience the transformative power of nature. In the end, the journey was not just about reaching the summit or conquering physical challenges; it was about embracing the journey itself and allowing it to change me in ways I could never have imagined. As I bid farewell to Mount Cagua, I carried with me memories of its beauty and a renewed sense of wonder for the world around me.

A wet weekend at Pinipisakan Falls and Sulpan Cave

If Encantadia is a real place, this would be it!

Although discovered and explored way back in 1991, Sulpan Cave in San Jorge, Samar remained under the radar of many travel enthusiasts except for some really adventurous explorers. The underground river that runs through it supplies the waters of the 7-tiered Pinipisakan Falls, a wonder in its own right.

Exploring the 6km+ Sulpan Cave is a more than 5-hour affair, which entails a lot of swimming against the river current. Expect to get really, really wet!

For a hassle-free Sulpan caving and Pinipisakan Falls adventure, contact Trexplore PH.

Camiguin Norte: An oft ignored beauty

Surely, many of us have, by now, heard how travelling is not only about seeing new places but in seeing old, familiar places with new eyes. That is the subtle beauty of travel. It allows us to bring fresh perspective to an old haunt — a beach, a mountain lodge, a waterfall, and in this missive, a secluded island in the northernmost part of Luzon, Camiguin Norte. Also referred to as Camiguin de Babuyanes, it is one of five major islands that make up the Babuyan Group of Islands — the others being Calayan, Babuyan Claro, Dalupiri and Fuga. To be here again and “rediscover” this place with new friends filled me with much anticipation.

We left Calayan Island on a chartered boat amid a slight 5AM drizzle. The sea was slightly restless but we cared little as we swapped stories of how Calayan Island captivated our wanderlust. The 6-hour voyage came by quickly and as the sun began to take its position in the sky to announce midday, the imposing figure of Dakel a Balai began to loom in the horizon!  Dakel a Balai (or Balay) is an Ilocano term that means “big house”; and that, is what this mountain is to the locals.

Dakel a Balai

Too bad, we’re only staying in Camiguin Norte for the night; thus, we didn’t have time for a trek, even a short one. So we just contented ourselves watching its magnificence.

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As our boat headed for Balatubat port, we couldn’t contain our excitement and asked — nay, cajoled — our boatman to make a not-so-quick stop at this beautiful island where we saw children playing in its clear, blue waters.

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Not a minute wasted after docking at Balatubat Port, we headed for Kgd. Gina Ballestereros’ Lance Homestay, our dig for the night. After a quick meal, we negotiated with a local fisherman to rent his boat for beach hopping. We weren’t disappointed!

Naguilian Beach

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Mangiti-ngitit Beach

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Pamuctan Island

We definitely saved the best for last!20180503_103404

Our trip may be short, but for my friends, whose visit here was their first, it was a truly memorable experience and they couldn’t wait to return… and for me, their satisfaction was uplifting.

A taste of the simple life

When choosing a destination, I usually go for places that haven’t succumbed to commercialism yet. And when I travel, I always make it a point to try local delicacies or cuisine — I eat like the locals. Contrary to what you may have read about Batanes, dining out at PhP200 to PhP300 per dish, serving two to three people is not that expensive.

Ivatan cuisine have been influenced by the climate of the province – often times, exposed to high risks of agricultural disruption, they adopted strategies that ensured their survival.  Due to the frequency of typhoons and drought, they planted root crops that were more resilient to the destructive forces of the environment; these include yam, sweet potato, taro, garlic, ginger, and onion.

 

Why Batanes?

Batanes gave me the opportunity to discover different values and means to get by in life. Amid the exotic scenery is a way of life that has survived time.

Anchored in faith.

The Ivatans of today are considered to be the Christianized surviving group of the ancient people who once inhabited all the islands of Luzon and Taiwan.

Apart from the Jewish people, of course, I have never encountered any other group of people who take the “Sabbath” more seriously than the Ivatans. A good half of every Sunday is spent attending mass and having a relaxing lunch with family — at home or by the beach, picnic style. Commercial establishments are closed and open only in the afternoon.

Steadfast in the face of raging storms.

Also unique to the Ivatans are their limestone houses patterned after the Spaniards and adapted to stand the onslaughts of the notorious Batanes typhoons. Ivatan stone houses — typically windowless cube structures with walls as thick as one meter with thatched roof made of cogon grass.

The more famous of these vernacular houses is the House of Dakay, built in 1887.

Batanes

Two of Batanes’ most iconic symbols: the vernacular house (this one is the oldest house in the town of Uyugan in Batan Island) and the Japan-style bicycle.

Beacons of hope amid hardships.

The Batanes landscape won’t be complete without another of its iconic symbols — the lighthouses.

Stewards of nature’s bounty — above…

Batanes is the only province in the Philippines declared in its entirety as a protected land- and seascape area.

… and below.

The first time I visited Batanes, I wasn’t planning to go diving — actually, I didn’t even know that SCUBA diving is offered there. I’m glad I did!

Batanes. Untarnished. Unexploited. Unbending. Visit now!

Batanes: Home of the Ivatans

Batanes is a chain of small islands in the northernmost point of the Philippines. Of these islands, only three are inhabited: Batan, Itbayat and Sabtang. These three (3) islands comprise six (6) municipalities collectively known as BISUMI: Basco (the capital), Itbayat, Sabtang, Uyugan, Mahatao and Ivana. Although described as having no real ports, the island chains of Batanes boast small beaches and coves which serve as anchorage for the locals’ small boats.

Inhabiting Batanes are the Ivatans, their name derived from the language they speak: Chirin nu Ibatan or simply Ivatan, an Austronesian language spoken exclusively in the Batanes Islands which is characterized by the dominant use of the letter “v”, as in valuga, vakul and vanuwa.

Where to go in Batanes

Tour destinations in Batanes are subdivided into four (4) clusters:

  • North Batan Island (Basco)
    • Mt. Carmel Chapel
    • Radar Tukon
    • Idjang Viewpoint
    • Fundacion Pacita
    • Japanese Tunnel
    • Valugan Boulder Beach
    • Vayang Rolling Hills
    • Basco Lighthouse in Naidi Hills
    • Sto. Domingo Church
  • South Batan Island (Mahatao, Ivana and Uyugan)
    • Chawa Viewdeck
    • Mahatao Pier
    • San Jose Borromeo Church
    • Diura (Fishing Village)
    • Fountain of Youth
    • Racuh a Payaman (Marlboro Country)
    • Imnajbu Point
    • Old Naval Base
    • Alapad Rock
    • Song Song Ruins
    • San Jose de Ivana Church
    • Honesty Coffee Shop
    • Famous House of Dakay
  • Sabtang Island
    • San Vicenter Ferer Church
    • Savidug Village and Savidug Idjang Rock Fortress
    • Sabtang Vernacular Houses
    • Sabtang Lighthouse
    • Limestone production
    • Chamantad-Tinyan Viewpoint
    • Chavayan Village
    • Nakabuang (Morong) Beach and Ahao Arch
    • Vuhus Island
  • Itbayat Island
    • Chinapoliran Port
    • Sta. Maria Immaculada (Itbayat) Church
    • Lake Kavaywan
    • Mt. Karoboban Viewpoint
    • Torongan Hills and Cave
    • Paganaman Port and Lagoon
    • Rapang Cliffs and Stone Bell
    • Kaxobcan Beach
    • Mt. Riposed
    • Nahili Votox Burial Site
    • Komayasakas Cave and Water Source
    • Manoyok Sinkhole
    • Sarokan, Pevangan and Do’tboran Caves
    • Agosan Rocks
    • Port Mauyen
    • Island hopping (when weather permits):
      • Siayan
      • Dinem
      • Ditarem
      • Yami (Mavolis)

Optional activities

Mt. Iraya Hike (North Batan)
Duration: 3hrs to 4 hrs
Highlights: At 1,900ft ASL, Mt Iraya offers a stunning view of Basco and a wide array of endemic flora and fauna.

Mt. Matarem Hike (South Batan)
Duration: 1.5hrs to 2hrs
Highlights: An extinct volcano, Mt. Matarem spans the municipalities of Mahatao, Uyugan and Ivana. At the summit, you’ll have a commanding view of Sabtang.

Hiking/Walking Tour
Duration: 4hrs to 6hrs
Highlights: Hike along the Basco-Mahatao Trail, stopping by Racuh-a-idi Spring of Youth in Diura Fishing Village for a cold, refreshing dip. Then continue on to the radar station, Fundacion Pacita and the wind turbines.

SCUBA Diving
Duration: 2hrs to 3hrs, depending on the dive location and number of dives.
Highlights: Explore the rich marine life of Sabtang: Pavona coral fields, Trevallies Lair, Canyons, etc.

Fishing/Boating
Duration: Minimum of 1hr
Highlights: Experience “mataw” fishing with local anglers using nylon line and hook.

ATV Touring
Duration: up to whole day
Highlights: Explore Batan at your own pace.

Bicycle (Motorbike) Touring
Duration: up to whole day
Highlights: A visit to Batanes is not complete without trying out one of its iconic symbols, the bicycle. Tour Batan Island on two wheels, either self-powered or motorized. Travel from the heart of Basco to the southernmost parts of Batan.

Contacts:

BISUMI Tours and Services
Ryan Lara Cardona <+63915.803.4582>
bisumitours@gmail.com

MarFel Lodge
<+63908.893.1475>
<+63920.976.4966>
<+63917.857.4493>
<+63917.883.3249>
marfellodge@gmail.com
http://marfellodgebatanes.com

Dive Batanes
Chico Domingo <+63939.935.1950>

Ivatan ATV Rentals
<+63998.551.9656>

Basco TODA
<+63929.703.8404>

Casa Napoli Pizza
<+63999.990.7553>

Rapang (Itbayat) Guide
Jose Valiente <+63949.620.0184>

Beyond words: Kaparkan Falls, Abra

The first time I saw photos of this one-of-a-kind waterfalls in Abra, I instantaneously said to myself, I have to see it with my own eyes… and see it, I did!

Kaparkan Falls, hidden in the heart of Abra, is a gruelling three- to four- (sometimes five-) hour long ride via 4x4s or monster trucks, depending on road conditions, which is pretty much from worse to worst, especially that the best months to go here is during the rainy months of July to September.

In most cases, steel chains are wrapped around the tires for added grip in the muddy road.

After a body-wrenching rollercoaster ride, the waterfalls is still about 15mins to 20mins away on foot! But all these pain and hardships vanish as soon as you see the beauty and experience the cool, refreshing waters of Kaparkan Falls.

Aside from its unique formation — terraced cascades forming mini pools in several tiers — another of Kaparkan’s rare beauty is the color of its water. Rich mineral deposits lend it its light bluish hue.

Kaparkan Falls is truly one of nature’s many wonders.

NOTE:

Visits/Trips to Kaparkan Falls is regulated by the local tourism office. Before traveling here, make sure you have advance registration. For inquiries, you may get in touch with Ms DyKath Molina, Abra Provincial Tourism Office (https://www.facebook.com/dyane.kath).

Paddies in the Sky: Ifugao Rice Terraces

The rice terraces collectively known as the Ifugao Rice Terraces is among the “Eight Wonder of the Ancient World”, covering about 4,000 square miles of mountainside at approximately 1,500 meters (5,000 ft.) above sea level.

Carved into the Cordillera mountains of North Luzon in the Philippines by the indigenous “Ifugao” people using ordinary hand tools and implements, these rice paddies in the sky have withstood time for more than 2,000 years and continue to provide food for the Kalinga Nation.

What makes these rice paddies unique is their construction. Beginning from the valley floor, stone and/or mud walls are built along the natural contours of the mountain side, reaching as high as 50 feet, then backfilled with fertile soil where another wall is erected at a slightly higher elevation. Each terrace comprising the Ifugao Rice Terraces was constructed from the valley floor up and are watered by an ancient irrigation system from the rain forests above the rice terraces. The system comprises of dams, sluices, channels and bamboo pipes, which are open and closed in co-operation with each owner.

Although hundreds of rice terraces are still intact and spread across Northern Luzon, only these six rice terraces clusters are included in the UNESCO World Heritage Site norm.

1) Nagacadan terrace cluster in the municipality of Kiangan, a rice terrace cluster manifested in two distinct ascending rows of terraces bisected by a river.2) Hungduan terrace cluster that uniquely emerges into a spider web.3) Central Mayoyao terrace cluster which is characterized by terraces interspersed with traditional farmers’ bale (houses) and alang (granaries).4) Bangaan terrace cluster in the municipality of Banaue that backdrops a typical Ifugao traditional village.5) Batad terrace cluster of the municipality of Banaue that is nestled in amphitheatre-like semi-circular terraces with a village at its base.6) Banaue Rice Terraces.

Romblon: A beachgoer’s Paradise

Sharing its name with the province, the town of Romblon is a picturesque settlement that gained prominence during Spanish colonial times as a trading post. The island municipality is blessed with natural playgrounds such as beaches, rivers, natural pools and diverse marine ecosystems that offer visitors several opportunities for adventures.

Agpanabat Marine Sanctuary

Romblon has 17 marine sanctuaries, the most popular being Agpanabat Marine Sanctuary and Turtle Rescue Center, just below Apunan Lighthouse.

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Various species of corals and anemones cover the seabed and serve as home to colorful schools of fish.

Bonbon Beach and Sandbar

Perhaps the most popular beach destination in Romblon is Bonbon Beach. Just 15 minutes away from the town proper, this marble-white beach is Romblon’s top tourist drawer.

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Tiamban Beach

Tiamban Beach is bounded by Nonok Beach and Bonbon Beach on either side, and is a good alternative when the two becomes overly crowded. The idyllic coastline of Tiamban Beach makes for a leisurely getaway.

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Bang-og Islet can be seen here.

Nonok Beach

Nonok Beach is a favorite events place among locals. Its main attraction are its various underwater sculptures. You can rent a kayak and paddle your way around Nonok Beach’s mini mangrove forest.

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Talipasak Beach

Thirty minutes from Romblon town proper in Talipasak Beach is San Pedro Beach Resort. This privately owned resort is a welcome change from the usually crowded Nonok, Tiamban and Bonbon beaches. One can just sit back and enjoy the view or take a dive and marvel at the diverse marine life.

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Libtong Falls and Natural Pool

Off the beaten track, Libtong Falls features a natural pool walled in by bedrocks, best for a refreshing dip. While the falls is not that spectacular, Libtong is a popular destination for thrill seekers wanting to hone their cliff jumping stunts… or, as in our case, just chillaxing and cooling off after a 15-minute trek.

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Quipot (or Kipot) River

Twenty minutes downhill from the main highway is Quipot (or Kipot) River. Kipot falls is also a favorite among those who subscribe to the thrills of cliff jumping.

 

 

Bulalacao: Oriental Mindoro’s Star on the Rise

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Bulalacao “harbor”, seen here during low tide, is usually lined with all sorts of bancas plying their trades.

The quiet town of Bulalacao in Oriental Mindoro has long been under the radar of weekend travelers. To many, it is but another stop along the RORO route to the Visayas, as well as another gateway to Boracay.

Well, until mainstream media caught a wind of it.

Today, Bulalacao has become a favorite destination of intrepid backpackers, especially those from Manila, who do not mind the butt-numbing trip by land and sea.

Here is a sample itinerary if you are coming from Manila:

1000PM   Depart Manila for Batangas pier via bus; fare is P167/pax; Travel time: 1.5hrs

1200MN   Ride a RORO or FastCat for Calapan; fare is P240/pax; terminal fee is P30; Travel time: 1.5 hrs to 2hrs, depending on the vessel

0200AM   At the pier in Calapan, head for the rows of passenger vans and take the Calapan-Roxas route; instruct the driver to drop you off where Bulalacao-bound vans are; fare is P250/pax; Travel time: 2hrs to 3hrs

0600AM   In Roxas, take the Bulalacao-bound van (fare is P70 to P100 per pax); Travel time: 1hr to 1.5hrs

0800AM   From the Bulalacao van terminal, grab a tricycle to the Municipal Tourism Office (MTO), where you can register and get assistance in hiring a bangka for island hopping

NOTE: You can also just hop on a Philtranco or a Visayas-bound RORO bus that will take you directly to Bulalacao.

There is a standard rate for island hopping being implemented by the Municipal Tourism Office to eliminate overpricing. The uniform going rate for island hopping is P3,500 per bangka (with a maximum 10-person capacity) for three islands only. You can choose any three of these islands: Tambaron, Suguicay, Aslom and Target. Going to Buyayao Island from Bulalacao is a bit more expensive because of its distance.

Of course, you can always head off to the port — at your own risk — and test your haggling skills with the boatmen there waiting for fares.

What to see in Bulalacao

Tambaron Island

Based on online search results, Tambaron Island seems to be the more popular — or maybe, more recognizable or known — of the Bulalacao group of islands. It’s “main” cove houses the Tambaron Green Beach Resort, where you can comfortably stay for the night. A restaurant here offers breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Aside from swimming and snorkeling, Tambaron Island also offers mountain trails for avid trekkers where one can marvel at the richness of the island’s flora and fauna.

If you crave peace and quiet, you can hire a motorized boat and head off to any of the other coves surrounding Tambaron Island.

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Aslom islet and sandbar

Aslom islet is a worthwhile stop when island hopping in Bulalacao. Just make sure you catch it on a low tide to fully appreciate the sandbar.

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Target Island

The island, as the popular story goes, owes its name to its “explosive” past — as a target for the American Navy dive bombers and fighter jets.

With that story in mind, one would expect an island full of craters and jagged rocks and burnt ground. Surprisingly, there were none of those. Instead, visitors are greeted by the lush greenery, teal to deep blue waters and white sand-and-pebbles beach. Paved walkways and staircases make exploring the island easily and comfortably.

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Maasin (or Masin) island and fishing village

Not included in the usual island hopping stops, Maasin Island came as a surprise. We did not expect to find a gem in this small fishing village. Compared with Tambaron, Aslom, Suguicay or Target — and even Buyayao — islands, the sand here is finer, whiter… and the water, cooler and more refreshing — a very good example of how pristine should look like.

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Suguicay Island

I believe, Suguicay Island is the “happiest and busiest” island and a picnic favorite here in Bulalacao. Rows of various accommodations and small “resorts” where you can stay for the night — with the occasional videoke machine — as well as picnic tables for day tour visitors, line the island’s beach front. Small sari-sari stores selling souvenir items dot the area.

If you seek serenity, a short walk through the small fishing community and further down the mangroves will take you to a tiny cove with the same fine, white sand as the main beach… but, you guessed right, much quieter.

Whether coming from San Jose, Occ. Mindoro or Roxas/Calapan, Or. Mindoro, Suguicay Island can be directly accessed via Brgy. Bancal, which is still a part of Bulalacao. Just tell the van driver or bus conductor that you’re getting off at Bancal. From the highway, you’ll need to ride a habal-habal to the port where commuter motorized bancas await visitors.

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Pocanil Beach and “Kwe-bato”

About 30 minutes from Bulalacao town proper, Pocanil Beach in Brgy San Roque serves as one of the entry points to Buyayao Island. It is quieter and more relaxing than its closest neighbor, Buktot Beach in the nearby town of Mansalay, albeit, its waters is not really good for swimming.

I believe the most interesting sight here is the fabled Kwe-bato, a cave located high up in the rock face bounding one side of Pocanil Beach. According to locals, a bamboo ladder served as access to the cave entrance before, but was eventually taken down by barangay officials to prevent any untoward incident, as the bamboo ladder became unsteady. Access to the cave is prohibited to this day.

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Buyayao Island

Buyayao Island, in my opinion, is very much underappreciated by many.

Nestled in the quiet part of Brgy. San Roque in Bulalacao, Buyayao Island is breathtaking, idyllic, pristine, serene.

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Buyayao Island by far is at the top of my Bulalacao-islands-to-visit list.

 


 

Bulalacao is accessible by AIR:

  • Take a domestic flight from Manila to San Jose in Occidental Mindoro.
  • From the airport, ride a tricycle to the bus/van terminal and take a Roxas- or Calapan-bound van or bus and get off at Bulalacao town proper.
  • Grab a tricycle to the Municipal Tourism Office (MTO), where you can register and get assistance in hiring a bangka for island hopping.

or from Boracay:

  • From Caticlan Port, board a ferry bound for Roxas, Oriental Mindoro.
  • From Roxas port, ride a tricycle to the terminal for Bulalacao-bound vans.
  • Once in Bulalacao town proper, ride a tricycle to the Municipal Tourism Office (MTO), where you can register and get assistance in hiring a bangka for island hopping.
  • NOTE: FastCat travels direct to Bulalacao port from Caticlan.

and Coron:

  • From Busuanga port,  board a ferry bound for San Jose, Occidental Mindoro.
  • From the seaport, ride a tricycle to the bus/van terminal and take a Roxas- or Calapan-bound van or bus and get off at Bulalacao town proper.
  • Once in Bulalacao town proper, grab a tricycle to the Municipal Tourism Office (MTO), where you can register and get assistance in hiring a bangka for island hopping.