Mount Cagua: A power waiting to be unleashed?

Mount Cagua (pronounced as Ka-wah, according to our guides), located in the quiet town of Gonzaga, is the only active stratovolcano in the province of Cagayan, and is known also for its stunning landscapes and rich biodiversity. Rising to an elevation of approximately 1,158 meters above sea level (MASL), it offers breathtaking views of the main caldera, a partial view of the twin sulfur vents or fumaroles, and parts of the northern coast of Cagayan.

The volcano is part of the Babuyan or Cagayan Volcanic Arc and is characterized by two prominent “craters” with several sulfuric fumaroles. The main caldera is 1.5 kilometers in diameter, with walls reaching as high as 60 meters.

NOTE 1: The locals here mistakenly call the main caldera as “Crater 1” and the twin sulfur vents as “Crater 2”.

NOTE 2: Fumaroles are openings in the earth’s surface that emit steam and volcanic gases, such as sulfur dioxide and carbon dioxide. They can occur as holes, cracks, or fissures near active volcanoes or in areas where magma has risen into the earth’s crust without erupting.

While hiking Mount Cagua, adventurers can marvel at its diverse flora and fauna, including endemic trees (“tibbug”) and bird (“bil-billit”) species. The hike to Mount Cagua consists five legs, each commencing at designated pit stops or stations.

Station 1: Sulyap sa Cagua. The station name literally means a peek at Cagua, where you can already see the steam trails from the two prominent craters. This is the jump-off point and is a short leg of about 20- to 30-minute walk. The trail begins gently enough, winding its way through corn fields and culminates in the shade of a “tibbug” tree.

Station 2: “Tibbug” Woods. “Tibbug” is an Ilocano term for what the Tagalogs call “tibig” or sacking tree, a type of flowering plant of the Moraceae family, which can grow up to nine meters high. From here, it’s about an hour-and-a-half trek on a slightly ascending trail through tall trees and occasional rocky terrain. You’ll know when you are almost at the end of the trail when you encounter a steady incline of rugged slopes. The 15-minute mini ascent left me winded!

Making a quick stop to listen to the sound of birds.

Station 3: “Bil-billit” Sanctuary. Here, you’ll be greeted by a cacophony of bird calls! The “noise” is just enchanting! This area of the mountain is a sanctuary to 121 species of indigenous birds, which includes more than 16 endangered species of the Philippine hawk eagle owl (Bubo Philippinensis), furtive flycatcher (Fliceduladisposita), and Rafus hornbill or “kalaw” (Buceroshydrocorax). According to our guides, you can hear the “kalaw” cawing as if doing a time-check every 10am or 11am. By the way, “Bil-billit” in Ilocano means birds.

From Station 3, the trek becomes a little more strenuous, with the terrain becoming more rugged and steep. Ours was made more laborious by the early morning drizzle, which made the trail slippery.

Station 4: “Alimanawan” Red Zone. This section of the trail is characterized by thick under brushes and extremely rugged terrain. But more than the trail, the hour-long steady uphill climb, and the thinning air, this part of the trek is made doubly taxing by, one word: “Limatik”, hence the “Red Zone” in the station name. The nagging fear of encountering these bloodsuckers will keep you on your toes. With each step, you will feel the air grow thinner and start to breathe in the unmistakable scent of sulfur permeating the air (if you have any pulmonary issues, it is best to wear a mask).

The Red Zone finishes in a grassy flatland where you can finally see the summit and the main caldera. The trek to the summit is more relaxed from here, navigated through a narrow and winding footpath. Finally seeing the steam vents reinforced in me a sense of curiosity and wonder… and a tiny bit of fear: “What if Mount Cagua decides to wake up right there and then?”, which I just brushed off, the elation of summitting this mountain eclipsed the fear.

Mount Cagua Summit. At 1,158 MASL, Mount Cagua summit offers a bird’s eye view of Cagayan’s northern coast, with glimpses of Santa Teresita’s long stretch of coastline and the Babuyan Channel.

Descending from the summit to the main caldera can be very tough for an inexperienced trekker. The terrain is almost vertical that you have to rely on ropes to safely go down. At times, climbers may need to use both hands and feet to navigate the descent due to the very rugged nature of the terrain. Please proceed with extreme caution and be mindful of the trail conditions during the descent from the summit to the main crater.

With cautious steps, we descended into the main caldera, the heat of the steam radiating against my skin and the pungent smell of sulfur soaking my lungs. The ground beneath me felt alive, vibrating with the energy of the volcano’s restless heart. It was a humbling experience, a reminder of the immense power that lay dormant beneath the earth’s surface. The caldera was a sight unlike anything I had ever seen, simultaneously beautiful and terrifying in its intensity.

Sulfur crystals or deposits found around the crater.

Main Caldera. Several vents and fumaroles that emit steam and gases dot the entirety of the caldera of Mount Cagua, indicating volcanic activity. A prominent “mud pot” where one can see actual mud boiling is one of the highlights of the caldera. Boiling mud is a mixture of water, gases, and volcanic ash or other sediments that boils at the surface due to the intense heat from underground volcanic activity. This mixture often forms in areas where water interacts with hot rocks or magma beneath the earth’s surface. This boiling action has created mud pools, bubbling mud pots, or small mud vents in the caldera. While most of the larger “mud pots” are marked and/or sealed off, there are still several vents that remain hidden so walking around the area should be limited to marked footpaths only to avoid any untoward incidents.

It’s important to note that due to the volcano’s active status, the conditions around the caldera can change over time, influenced by various volcanic processes such as eruptions, gas emissions, and volcanic tremors.

Twin Sulfur Fumaroles. An 800-meter trek from the caldera through dense vegetation leads to the twin sulfur vents or fumaroles. Here, the ground vibration is more pronounced and the hissing sound of the vented steam much louder. A sulfuric river (although dried up when we visited) runs along the trail leading to the caldera.

While this is the best spot to take those “dramatic” shots, extra care should always be exercised, as loose rocks abound.

Mount Cagua Waterfalls or Bagsang (or Sangbay) Falls. From the secondary crater, the waterfalls is a good ten- to fifteen-minute walk and is considered as the tallest waterfalls discovered in Gonzaga. The short trek to the falls is highlighted by moss-covered rocks, fallen trees, and various plant species, and culminates in a challenging rappel down a cliff to reach the base.

The trip to Bagsang Falls proves to be a refreshing detour at this juncture of the hike. Trekkers can take advantage of the cool waters to soothe tired muscles.

Station 5: Bunkhouse. The final station of the half-day trek through Mount Cagua is the Bagsang base camp or bunkhouse. It’s just a 30-minute trek from the waterfalls.

From the bunkhouse, the return trek is a much shorter hike as it skips the entire “Red Zone”; a mere 10-minute walk will already take you to the the trail head of Station 4, and from there, you can just follow the same path you’ve initially taken until you reach the jump-off station.

This adventure was made possible by Napapagna under Eldridge Bandas.

Take Away: A Journey into the Heart of Mount Cagua

Mount Cagua is a “friendly volcano” to the locals, having erupted only twice in recorded history. Although still considered an active volcano, it has been dormant since its last eruption in 1907.

Trekking through the rugged terrain of Mount Cagua was not just a physical journey; it was a transformative experience that would leave an indelible mark on one’s soul.

As I reflect on the adventure, I am reminded of the awe-inspiring beauty of nature and the profound connection it fosters between the human spirit and the natural world. Each leg of the trek unfolded like a chapter in a story, revealing new wonders and challenges along the way. From the gentle ascent through corn fields at Sulyap sa Cagua to the enchanting cacophony of bird calls at the “Bil-billit” Sanctuary, every step brought us closer to the heart of the mountain and deeper into its embrace.

Deeper into the mountain, the terrain became more rugged and steep, the air grew thinner, and the scent of sulfur permeated the atmosphere, testing our endurance. The descent from the summit to the main caldera demanded courage and caution as we navigated the treacherous terrain with ropes as our lifeline. But amidst the physical challenges and moments of uncertainty, there was a profound sense of wonder and awe that pervaded the journey. Standing at the summit, gazing out at the panoramic vista of Cagayan’s northern coast, I felt a profound connection to the earth and a deep appreciation for the beauty that surrounded me.

Descending into the main caldera, I was humbled by the raw power and beauty of nature, as steam vents and fumaroles dotted the landscape, reminding me of the volcano’s restless heart. The sight of boiling mud and sulfur deposits served as a potent reminder of the dynamic forces at play beneath the earth’s surface, a reminder of the delicate balance between creation and destruction. As we made our way to the twin sulfur vents and Mount Cagua Waterfalls, I was struck by the resilience of life that thrived in the midst of adversity. Moss-covered rocks, fallen trees, and vibrant plant species adorned the landscape, a testament to nature’s ability to adapt and flourish in even the harshest of environments.

On our way back to civilization, I felt a sense of gratitude for the opportunity to witness the beauty of Mount Cagua and to experience the transformative power of nature. In the end, the journey was not just about reaching the summit or conquering physical challenges; it was about embracing the journey itself and allowing it to change me in ways I could never have imagined. As I bid farewell to Mount Cagua, I carried with me memories of its beauty and a renewed sense of wonder for the world around me.

No Way Home: A “Biniray” Aftermath

The Biniray Festival in the island of Romblon has been on my bucket list for some time as I seek authentic and enriching experiences in celebrating the feast of the Sto. Niño. However, my recent visit to this cultural extravaganza left me deeply disappointed, not due to the festival itself, but rather the glaring inadequacy of ferry services to accommodate the influx of eager attendees.

Romblon’s picturesque landscapes and the promise of the Biniray Festival drew me in with high expectations. Sadly, those expectations were met with frustration as the lack of available ferry trips proved to be a substantial roadblock to the overall enjoyment of the event. The festival, which should have been a seamless celebration of culture, became marred by the logistical nightmare of getting to and from the island.

The limited ferry schedule left many tourists, myself included, stranded for days, forcing us to rethink our plans and miss out on some of the province’s key offerings. It is disheartening to witness such an oversight, particularly when the success of the Biniray Festival relies heavily on attracting and accommodating visitors. The enthusiasm to immerse oneself in the local traditions is dampened when the journey itself becomes a cumbersome ordeal.

This disappointment extends beyond personal inconvenience; it reflects a broader concern for the tourism industry in Romblon. A festival that has the potential to showcase the beauty and warmth of the region is overshadowed by the inadequacies of its transportation infrastructure. Addressing this issue is not just about convenience; it is about safeguarding the reputation of Romblon as a tourist-friendly destination and ensuring the sustained interest of visitors.

My disappointment in the lack of ferry trips during the Biniray Festival is not merely an isolated incident but a reflection of a broader challenge that needs urgent attention. Rectifying the ferry service shortcomings is crucial not only for the satisfaction of festival attendees but also for the long-term prosperity of Romblon’s tourism industry. It is my hope that authorities recognize the urgency of this matter and take swift measures to ensure that future festival-goers can fully enjoy the magic of Biniray without the hindrance of inadequate transportation options.

P.S. If not for the kindness of San Agustin Port Manager Randy Madamo, Balisa Beach Resort owner Jojo Maestro, Romblon Port staff Roger Madrona, the “ate” at the terminal fee window, and members of the Coast Guard, we wouldn’t have made it out of Romblon, Romblon in time for our next destination.

Until a more efficient transportation system is in place and unless you have arranged private transportation to and from Romblon, I wouldn’t recommend going during the annual Biniray Fiesta. Sad. But true.

81, 82 or 83: What’s the count?

I can’t remember exactly when I did finally chalk my 81st. At the time, I wasn’t really keeping tab of the places I have been to, so long as I get to find a story to tell or a moment to capture and photograph. This #81PH fad was still unheard of.

I have already published a few articles about travel, yet some remain to still see the light of day — mostly because I ran out of steam. I think writer’s block is as real as sunrise. I still have a lot of travel stories to tell, but I can’t seem to find the same drive or energy as I had. Also, my patience has waned a lot that I cannot seem to go past the whole process of tedious manuscript revisions. After a few drafts, I simply find myself abandoning the task.

However, I have yet to satisfy my thirst for capturing beautiful photographs, which fuels my itch to travel. Photos have always been a big thing for me and after about a quarter-century of travelling, I have amassed upwards of 125,000 pictures and counting!  Looking through them one day, they reminded me of the special moments captured in each one of the albums. Apart from words, photos in themselves truly are stories waiting to be told. I can look at one and weave together the story behind it. That’s what always made them special. And as I reminisce with some photos,  I came to the realization that I have — forgive me for this oft-used term — “conquered” all 81 provinces of the Philippines! 

You can download the Timba app here: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.timba.app

Thanks Al John Quiapon for this app: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.timba.app

Hurrah? Not really. I may have been to all 81 (or is it 83 now?) provinces but I haven’t completely seen the whole country, much less capture a singular picture of it. I must concede, much is yet to be discovered — sights to see, adventures to explore, cultures to experience. Y’see, travel spins us around in two directions at once — while it shows us sights and stories that we usually ignore in our day-to-day lives, it also allows us to discover parts of ourselves that we do not  otherwise recognize. In being in a different place, with different people, we bring ourselves to uncharted states of mind and reflections.

Reflections. Well, I’m still trying to work that one out; thus, saving it for another time. Cheers!

The Passion of Christ

The Senakulo is a dramatization of the Passion of Jesus Christ–His trial, suffering, death and resurrection; and is performed during the Holy Week or Semana Santa in the Philippines. Traditionally, the Senakulo runs for eight nights–from Palm Sunday through Easter morning.

The term Senakulo is derived from the Spanish cenáculo, meaning “cenacle,” the place where Jesus Christ celebrated the Last Supper with his disciples.

The Senakulo has many variations across the Philippine archipelago, each incorporating a local tradition. While some regions have penitents go to ‘extreme’ penitensya–from self flagellation to actual crucifixion–many towns still adhere to the message of the Good News: that Jesus Christ died n the cross for our sins.

In Guimaras in the Visayas region, they have the “Pagtaltal” or the bringing down of the dead Christ from the cross. In Sta. Cruz, Marinduque, the “Pugutan” or the beheading of Longinus is one of the highlights the pageant.

Photos below are from Boac, Marinduque.

The “Senakulo” in Boac, Marinduque kicks off with the procession of the three condemned to the cross–Jesus of Nazareth and the two bandits, Dimas and Hestas.

“I thirst!”

“Woman, behold thy son. Son, behold thy mother.”

Jesus and Longinus

One of two bandits crucified with Christ. In Christian tradition, Hestas was the unrepentant brigand…

“Father, unto Thine hand I commend My spirit!”

“It is finished.”

… Dimas was the penitent thief.

The lifeless body of Jesus Christ is brought down from the cross.

Pieta.

Let me tell you a story…

Vagabond

Don’t YOLO; LiLi

Don’t just stand there

It isn’t always pretty…

Fill your cup